Gilded Age

Natural Indigo Dyeing

Natural indigo is one of the oldest dye. Indigo has been known to man for more than 4000 years. In ancient Egypt and ancient India, indigo was used for dyeing. Also in Asia we have an evidence of using indigo. A Chinese old book in about third century B.C. says "Blue from indigo plant is deeper than its origin." The literal translation of this proverb "blue from indigo plant is deeper than its origin", actually means "one attains a greater mastery than his teacher". This corresponds to the English proverb "The new rose becomes more beautiful than the old rose".

The word "indigo" originally means a dye from India. Now a day indigo also means the colorant in natural indigo. Indigo can be obtained from a variety of plants such as Indigofera, Storobilanthes and Polygonum.

In Japan Polygonum is used to make natural indigo. Oldest evidence of indigo dyeing in Japan is appeared in 10th century. In 18th century, every class of the people wear indigo products.

Grown leaves in summer are cut to make natural indigo dye

Polygonum had been cultivated all over Japan. Yield was highest in Shikoku area. Climate of this region called Tokushima (ancient name, Awa) is good for the plant. The river called the Yoshino supplies much water and good soil. About 200 years ago, this region, Awa, was very wealthy as a production center of natural indigo. Spring is the planting season and in summer Polygonum grows to be cut. Leaves are separated from stems by wind. Leaves collected are subjected to fermentation.

Soil like dye which contains indigo colorant is made after this fermentation. Fermentation must be accomplished under wet and

warm conditions. Every three days the farmer must mix and add water. After the mixing, the plant was covered with a straw mat (of a rice plant). The farmers think the production of indigo is to bring up a baby, they call the straw mat bedclothes and they call this room a bed-room. If the leaves are not moist enough, temperature does not raise and the fermentation does not proceeds well. In such a case, they say the dye caught a cold. Again and again they mix. By the fermentation for 3 months, they can get soil like product which contains 3 to 5 % of indigo. The farmers pack and send them to dyers.

Indigo cannot be used for dyeing directly because it is not soluble to water. Dyeing is quite different

Leaves are fermented for 3 months. Water is added every 3-4 days and the leaves are mixed.

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